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When compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.